What carabiner to use with a grigri. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. ” TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. Feb 7, 2019 · 1 - Feed the rope through your Grigri, and attach the Grigri to your belay loop with a large locking carabiner, just like you would for belaying. I keep those around for rapelling only. Using a grigri as your belay device greatly simplifies a number of self-rescue scenarios. This has been done for years using various different methods and modifications. One carabiner can’t rule them all and perform flawlessly in all scenarios. Oct 12, 2023 · However, we’ve seen many folks use them for their chalk bag. For the original tutorial I made 5, I used some thick 4mm cord, made a big hole in my grigri, and attached it to a normal BD Rocklock with a figure eight on a bight. These recommendations are based on our actual usage experience with the carabiners along with the Grigri. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. If you were working in rope access or rigging then your worksite may require only triple action autolocking carabiners. Screw the cylindrical piece all the way into place over the carabiner’s gate to secure it in place, so it won’t come unhooked while you belay a climber. There is only one device to attach, so a wide opening and high capacity are not necessary. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. When using it, there is no need to recheck it during the course of the activity. Make sure you're using it right with these simple steps. Note: If your gym is pre-rigged with GriGri’s, an offset D locking carabiner is a fine option. 5 to 11 mm. I'm not sure I'd call it a PSA, though. When using it, there is no need to rech Feb 3, 2019 · The progress capture / ratchet is a critical part of a hauling system. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. Mar 1, 2023 · This article lists five of the top carabiner for Grigri that anyone can use today. SCREW-LOCK features a red band provides a visual warning when the carabiner is unlocked. One very nice aspect to using a GriGri as your top-of-the-crag belay device, is that it can easily be converted to a hauling system. FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia)It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. It's perfect for single pitch cragging and gym climbing. It is easy to handle and is perfectly suitable for connecting to a GRIGRI or GRIGRI + belay system. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. Crossloading basically went away when I stopped using an HMS carabiner with a Grigri. Reply reply zonman831 • Mar 13, 2024 · Does it need an introduction? GRIGRI sets the standard for belay devices. It can be used in this case, because the rope does not run through the carabiner (which could rub against the locking Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jun 5, 2025 · Put the carabiner through the grigri and screw the gate closed. Jul 19, 2019 · I've been having problems where I accidentally crossload my locking carabiner (Petzl Attache) while belaying someone on lead. Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia) I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. The GriGri is simple too, but I personally just like to use the equipment for what it was made for. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. You will learn how to: use the … Top Rope Belay Course Read More » Mar 13, 2024 · Sm’D is a D-shaped locking carabiner that is lightweight, compact, and can be used in numerous climbing situations; it is easy to manipulate, even when wearing gloves, and is available in three locking system versions: SCREW-LOCK, TWIST-LOCK, and TRIACT-LOCK. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned it is better to use a redirected belay from the harness. Oct 16, 2020 · Many climbers love their Grigri for sport climbing, but think that it's 1) too heavy and 2) single purpose to bring for a long alpine route. Checklist included! Mar 23, 2024 · The GriGri is the popular assisted breaking devices, but is often used incorrectly. Equipped with an ergonomic handle, providing easy control for a smooth and comfortable descent for the climber. On this Friday's gear show w'are having a look at how to use a Petzl GriGri 2, it's safety features, and what to avoid doing with it. You made an excellent choice! The Petzl GriGri is an assisted-braking belay device. When the rope is taut, the carabiner and the device are held in position by the tension. Is this really true? Let's take a closer look at why bringing a Grigri might be a smart move for alpine climbers. Follow these step by step instructions on how to belay with a GriGri, including giving slack quickly. A climber can only rappel using a single strand by blocking at the rappel ring using a knot that will be attached to a locking carabiner. Jan 16, 2025 · GriGri & locking carabiner Pre-tied quad on 180cm triple length sling & 2 locking carabiners Sterling Hollowblock (prussik) & 1 locking carabiner Petzl Connect Adjust w/ clove hitched HMS carabiner pre-rigged, for personal tether and extended rappel BD ATC Guide & locking carabiner, for two strand rappel and belay backup (2) spare locking Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. The GriGri with all of its magic does not replace a proper rappelling device. Its safety is its best feature. The efficiencies were just about the same with each one. Abundant features for a better belay. com : Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate Locking Carabiner, Black/Red, One Size : Sports & OutdoorsThis product has fewer returns than average compared to similar products. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. Dave Fasulo (Author of the Falcon Self Rescue book) recommends using a grigri for this reason. The large number of manipulations during the day increases the risk of error. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. If climbing or rappelling with a tubular belay device like an ATC or other device that uses a carabiner for friction, you could consider using a stainless steel carabiner. But, you need a few alternative techniques, because your device only works on a single strand of rope. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. Feb 3, 2019 · Surprisingly, using an ATC guide or similar device, or a Grigri as a progress capture introduces no significant amount of friction into the system, at least according to my limited testing. Top Rope Belay Course About Cost Dress Code About Learning how to belay is the first step at becoming self-sufficient in the sport. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. I use a DMM Belay Master with my GriGri and wouldn't like to use anything else. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. If your partner can't follow the pitch, you can help Multi-Pitch Climbing with a GriGri Double Cap Read Time - 5 minutes May 2020 Assisted braking devices such as Petzl GriGri or CAMP Matik are great tools. This only happens with my grigri, I haven't had problems with my atc albeit with a different locking carabiner (Camp HMS compact lock). The Petzl Freino Carabiner is ideal for adding or adjusting friction during the descent. Although that seems to work well, I am always happy to hear some thoughts on solo belay systems. Designed to be used with the Petzl Grigri (but just as effective with any belay device), the Freino belay carabiner is a 3 ounce autolocking unit that has a secondary gate and basket - yes, you may call it a spur to establish techno-superiority - that provides additional braking. Belaying with the GRIGRI The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. They planned on single strand rappels using the grigri? Usually on a big wall you'd have a reverso or some other tube device for the rap/backup belay device to the grigri. Instead, having a selection of carabiners on your harness makes much more sense. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. The Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate carabiner eliminates any worries of having your belay carabiner and device not being properly oriented. That way, you can deploy the best climbing carabiner for the specific scenario. It’s the ideal belay device for top rope climbing with a specific mode that makes it easier to take up slack. The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. If you want to be flexible with your carabiner and use multiple belay devices, the Edelrid Strike and the BD Gridlock (which I found very fumbly) have similar function of keeping the carabiner nicely aligned. Although Kochendörfer prefers an ATC or an alternative device to the GriGri, he admits that there are some situations in which the GriGri excels: “The only occasion where we use GriGri-like devices is for tree rescue and lift rescue. Mar 17, 2022 · The Petzl GriGri still requires the brake hand to remain on the brake strand. There are lots of devices you can use, and they vary greatly in terms of weight, cost, and most importantly, friction. This technique offers real advantages in terms of safety: - the rule to never let go of the . If you need to rappel with a GriGri, it is great in a pinch or if a GriGri is just what you happen to have and you don’t normally rappel. Dec 21, 2015 · Amazon. I tested this with both a 10 pound load and a 100 pound load. One of Grivel’s best twin-gate biners for belaying is the Plume, but the wires are too wide to fit into a GriGri. OK, alpha-gear-geeks, your carabiner has arrived. Knowing some of these techniques can be great for descending multi pitch routes where your partner has a standard tube device and you have a Grigri. Check out our 8 top picks and some helpful tips The GRIGRI and NEOX must be detached and re-attached each time the rope is installed, on every pitch of the climb. Add an extra measure of safety and convenience to your braking system with the Petzl Freino locking carabiner—its gated spur enhances braking friction. With the Clepsydra, you only need one. Jul 27, 2025 · How to Rappel with a Petzl GriGri Ensure you have your helmet and harness on correctly, and your personal safety is girth hitched through both hard points of your harness. I've never had my grigri get stuck as shown in the video, and I'm not really sure how that would happen organically (at least for me - I'm pretty sure that any time I have slack in my system, I have a hand on the grigri, so it wouldn't get wedged in like that). Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. Dec 13, 2023 · Most guides carry both the GriGri and the ATC, but in a pinch, they may rely on one device over the other. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. 5 Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. Dec 15, 2021 · Attach the grigri to the anchor’s master point with a locking carabiner. When rappelling or lowering on single ropes using a GriGri, the Freino provides increased friction without extra gear or the need to open the carabiner. Ensure the rappel rope is connected safely to your anchor. Use one of these techniques, and have the Grigri A guide to climbing carabiners: Find out more about types of carabiners, closure systems, load type & how to use them. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Compact and lightweight, it can be used with single ropes from 8. How to set up for a retrievable rappel with a single rope and a GriGri. Trad/Alpine Climber: Most likely all your non-locking carabiners, including your alpine draws and racking carabiners, will be offset D’s to keep weight down. We also check out the new GriGri+: with extra safety features The Petzl Freino carabiner is single-locking and designed with a friction spur for descenders. TWIST-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, while maintaining a good speed of use. I think I remember seeing the Euros doing it decades ago before I saw it here in the US. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl Sm’D is a lightweight, compact, D-shaped locking carabiner. Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. Feb 2, 2022 · In reply to John Workman: If you have been using it wrong, make sure you check for any sharp marking on the inside of the end you're about to start using at the belay loop end. Make sure that there is nothing nearby that the grigri could jam against that would stop it from properly braking. But a GriGri can also be used effectively at the top of a crag, for belaying a second. Mar 29, 2019 · If you have a Grigri or similar auto locking belay device, you can still get down a route. Jan 7, 2019 · This item: PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing The gridlock is a neat system, but I like its a bit overkill for use with a tube style belay device. Jun 21, 2023 · There’s no such thing as the ultimate carabiner for climbing. If you read the manual you will get even more confused. The deal is that the GriGri only locks when it is loaded so when you sit back down, you fall for a bit before your load locks it. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. 2 - Clip an ascender to the rope above the Grigri. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. Petzl GriGris are a fantastic multi-pitch device too, for sport multi-pitch routes, traditional routes with bolted anchors, or traditional routes which can be climbed Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Jul 25, 2023 · An Overview of the Petzl Grigri The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. I use a grigri (sometimes) and a gridlock, so this caught my eye. First off, GriGri is a Petzi-manufactured assisted braking device, and yes, you can use a GriGri when abseiling because it was designed to help secure you while abseiling. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. This type of carabiner is designed to minimize snagging and provide smooth rope handling when belaying with Apr 5, 2024 · Locking the GriGri at the top The other surprise if you don't use this trick is that when you do go above the top of the mast you are unloading the GriGri. It can be used in this case, because the rope does not run through the carabiner (which could rub against the locking sleeve). The smart is my favourite belay device. Connect your personal safety to your anchor and ensure all carabiners are locked. But, many UK climbers don’t make full use of their scope of capabilities. That is very surprising and unsettling to say the least. Using a GriGri also limits its adaptability as it only works on a specific size of ropes. Here are our in-depth reviews. Make sure the end of the rappel rope is touching the ground and a stopper knot is Dec 30, 2019 · If you're using a Grigri or similar device on a top rope belay, and you have a heavy partner, small diameter, and/or wet/icy rope, sometimes you need additional friction. 5 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia) It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. How to Use a GriGri In practice, belaying with a GriGri is similar to belaying with a nonassisted braking or tube Mar 2, 2023 · On the other hand, a GriGri can’t rappel on two strands coming out of the anchor. Make sure that the rope is correctly oriented in the grigri. You might not have any, but sometimes the GriGri can score the inside of the carabiner. I this a problem with my technique or is there something about grigri's and/or Petzl Attache's that make them more likely to cross You should use what you're more comfortable with (I use a reverso for the most part), but if your buddy insists on having you use the grigri, then ask to borrow it and get comfortable feeding rope through it. Press the carabiner open and clip it through the attachment holes on both of your grigri’s side plates. May 20, 2020 · The best carabiner for the Grigri can prevent dangerous situations when belaying and rappelling. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. Introducing the biner block technique. Attach a second locking carabiner to the anchor in a position above the grigri. With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for top rope or lead climbing in the gym or outside. Other information is provided to guide climbers choose the best locking carabiner for Grigri. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. Perfect for working your project! Sm’D is a D Jul 17, 2022 · Black Diamond GridLock super popular Belay Carabiner paired with Petzl GriGri raises a lot of questions and arguments amongst Climbers. Jul 5, 2011 · A lot of climbers get really wrapped up in using a GriGri on the ground, either for top-roping or for belaying a leader. Here are our in-depth reviews! Mar 16, 2025 · The best carabiner for use with a Grigri is a pear-shaped carabiner with a keylock nose. (Note that the ascender is usually for your non-dominant hand; ie, right handed climbers bideally should use a left handed acender. Jun 23, 2020 · Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia)I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. Apr 14, 2025 · I have been using a Grigri as a belay device when leading solo, with backup knots to a separate beefy locking carabiner. With this carabiner just a click and safety is guaranteed one hundred percent. I like to use grigri for toprope belaying and Jul2 for leading and I would feel super safe with my belayer using either to a point where I now hate even the idea of anyone using ATC/Reverso and the like for belaying me. You’ll need something to drill the hole, a carabiner you’re going to be attaching to and some cord. Having trouble with my gri gri crossloading. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. What carabiner will stop this? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. Most dissatisfying thing about magnetron is the inaudible response of the gate when I try to click it. Easy to handle: - Facilitates the creation of a tie-off - Keylock system helps prevent the carabiner from snagging during use - TWIST-LOCK automatic locking system, for quick opening Compatible with the HUIT, HUIT ANTIBRULURE, STOP (D09) and SIMPLE (D04) descenders and the NEOX, GRIGRI + and GRIGRI assisted blocking devices Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango I always click the carabiners as double check after attaching them regardless of the locking type. Feb 29, 2024 · Note: The example pictured above is a little misleading in that, when using the Gridlock with a GriGri (specifically this combo), it’s best to use the carabiner upside down, so the GriGri is attached to the belay keeper area. It is available in three locking system versions. Here’s an easy way to do that - redirect the brake strand through a second carabiner. Nov 8, 2023 · When you’re not glacier climbing, it works perfectly with a Grigri, as the little “horn” prevents the carabiner from being cross loaded The standard recommendation for clipping to the rope for glacier travel is to have two opposite and opposed carabiners, at least one of them locking. All of the options we recommend for use with the GRIGRI are aluminum because the rope does not rub and wear down the carabiner. Jan 8, 2019 · However, a second locking carabiner clipped to a higher anchor piece could also be used for less money, and in general we prefer to use an auto-locking ATC such as the Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide to belay up a seconding climber, as they are more secure for this use (and a lot lighter and less clunky to carry up) than a GriGri. But it doesn't work so good with an ATC, as the keeper wire usually opens the plastic clip of the carabiner. PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Reinforced for intensive use, it can be used with single ropes from 8. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. Aug 16, 2022 · The acronym comes from the Grigri being Held Upside-down and Backwards from how it is normally attached to the belay loop for belaying a lead climber. [3] The section of rope coming out of the top of your grigri is the Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Feb 15, 2018 · Grivel’s twin-gate carabiners create safer, faster and stronger biners and have been on the market for a few years. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. So it requires a little time to adapt to. Rappelling with GRIGRI and NEOX Multi-pitch rappelling with a single rope Belaying multi-pitch routes on single rope with a Using the GRIGRI/GRIGRI + with a low stretch Belay technique: taking up slack Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or Jun 26, 2021 · The grigri tether works for all models of grigri, but ever so slightly differently for each, but your materials will be the same. Why this choice? The D shape helps resist carabiner rotation. In order to safely use a GriGri on your descent, you must first have proper knowledge and training in setting this up. It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. When closed, the twin gate Designed specifically for belaying, the intuitive, easy-to-use GridLock isolates the belay loop behind its uniquely shaped gate, thereby keeping the carabiner in its proper orientation. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Petzl makes the Sm'D carabiner in screwlock, double action autolock (red sleeve), and triple action autolock (orange sleeve) Double action autolocking carabiners are fine for indoors and outdoors. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. Unsurprisingly, Petzl says not to use an HMS The Sm'd is small, doesn't do dumb, and has a tiny hole if you'd like to tether your Grigri to the carabiner. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. How Do You Get the Rope Back After Abseiling? Jul 16, 2025 · Grab your Petzl GriGri and learn how to identify its age, manufacturing batch, and unique product identifier using the Petzl serial number. urpty ewrqru mqisz ofuqyx ywecyd suuq mmoi xta qpsd ohpyb