Half crimp vs full crimp reddit. If you want to train full crimp do it separately.
- Half crimp vs full crimp reddit. Half crimping for me seems to get my half crimp better, but oddly I have not seen it transfer to full crimp. The extension of the pointer and the pinky allow for the relatively efficient use of the flexor muscles while half crimp position of the middle two fingers We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Not surprising, half or full crimping allows for better utilization of the hold when it comes to moving around that hold. Climbers don’t simply get injured from full crimping; they get injured because they aren’t listening to their bodies. I cant e g. All testing was done on a Tension 20mm edge for 10 seconds, with 5+ minutes of rest between hangs. I have the complete opposite experience as you. I'm talking 90° vs. Meanwhile, bolt-on holds have evolved and are now far more user-friendly and generally suited to the half-crimp than the hideous sharp edges that we used to bone down on. In a full crimp, you do everything you would in a half crimp but then press your thumb down on the fingernail of your index finger, locking it in place. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. Do this at 3 different horizontal angles (hopefully this makes sense). Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Quick question for the experts out there. Some choices, from most open to most closed, would be: 3 finger drag. I've climbed a maximum of a couple v10s, typically though I'm in the v8-9 range, and I always considered half-crimp strength one of my strengths, mainly going off lattice benchmarks and subjectively on crimpy climbs. You can train each grip type: open-hand crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp. Think about trying to lock off on a crimp down below your armpit from a drag grip, you can't produce the needed leverage. I always knew my open hand was the strongest and my half crimp was . I am using the beastmaker 1000 bottom crimp appx 15-16mm according to a different thread on reddit. I'm thinking this might be beneficial, my index definitely is a weak link in half crimps. Half crimp is all fingers crimped. Anyone else have this experience? I recently noticed my open-3 drag is much weaker than my half crimpabout 45 lbs weaker. I probably need to train that more but I full crimp all the time. I find now years later, that my open hand strength is superior to that of people who have climbed much longer than I, and it really helps on slopers or on small holds where sometimes a full crimp isnt possible due to hold type or body position. My middle finger is longer too so depending on the hold, my middle finger could be almost half crimping it and my ring and index finger are open crimping it. Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. Your half crimp with a straight pinky is safer for your pulleys, and closer to the natural half crimp grip on most holds. In other words, the half-crimp is virtually a one-stop shop for grip training. This means training a half crimp also trains full and open because they are within that 30 degrees. 4 finger open crimp. Definitely not a closed crimp. Here's something to visualize, Daniel Woods climbing "The Process" V16: Consider the times when Woods might full-crimp, open-hand or half-crimp and contemplate for yourselves why each position is used. I have injured my PIP joint as well as tendons doing your "active" half crimp with the 90 degree bend at the PIP joint. I'm always training half-crimp and climb mostly half-crimp with some full-crimp too. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. e. On BM2000 14mm I can only pull 5% BW half crimp, but 45% BW chisel, 30% BW 3-finger drag. Anyone who has switched from 20mm to 10mm or even less, around what %bw on 20mm do you think is good to switch at? The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. For instance, if someone had weak "half crimp" it would be better to just add a few crimp climbs to their progression rather than go straight to hangboard because of the factors mentioned above. The position is defined extended pointer and pinky fingers while the middle two fingers rest in the half-crimped position. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. On the bottom photo I'm forcing my index finger to 90 but my ring and middle feel like they're going into an hyper extended PIP position and closer to a full crimp. I have literally never trained a full crimp on a hangboard, I exclusively train half crimp, and my full crimp strength has improved drastically from doing so. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Most people train half or open crimp on edges because research shows that isometric strength training translates to other lengths of contraction within 30? degrees of the trained joint angle. Yes the first joint is bent more, but if you look at the angle of your knuckles instead, that seems to be a better indicator of half crimp vs full crimp for me. I personally do half crimp but I do open hand on any pocket-y type holds. Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. Just as an aside, I hardly ever use a full closed crimp and I am significantly weaker with it compared to open hand/half crimp. For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. As many have said, if a beginner even had more work capacity it's better to spend that work capacity on more climbing as opposed to hangboard or no hangs. Crimp grip gives you a mechanical advantage for force application - it's easier to keep your fingers closed, and therefore gripping a hold, while in crimp grip. If you watch Paul Robinson climb you'll see he often latches holes in a chisel grip (efficient and strong to hang on) and then readjusts to a half, or much more often full crimp, to then pull so he can still push down on the hold as he gets above it. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed pinky (half crimp, open, 3 finger drag) it seemed worthwhile to train it. Is there any specific reason for one Not to mention that you cannot make use of a crimp with a thumb-catch while open-handing the crimp unless the thumb-catch is in the right spot. I am now only hangboarding half crimp and highly recommend, up to +38kg on 20mm and have seen it noticeably translate to the wall. I weighr 150lbs and the max weight I tested was 75lbs on that hold. Apr 1, 2019 · Do you think this indicates that I may be overgripping a lot of holds, when a simple half crimp would suffice (i. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. I'm wondering, what is the weight differential between your half crimp and your 3-finger drag? Not full-crimping but definitely more crimped than on a 20mm, where I notice sometimes I'm kinda between a half crimp and "chisel crimp". Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. Oct 29, 2020 · Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). . But note that I worry more about my fingers than my wrist. Full is like deep crimp and wrapped thumb, usually. Jan 31, 2022 · Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. It’s obvious whenever I try a boulder I get held back only by my finger strength. Is it bad that I am not half crimping as suggested? From my own experience, half crimp and full crimp strength does not fully translate; what made the full crimp feel very comfortable for me was getting comfy hanging on 8mm with full crimp and climbing on techy granite stuff with tiny holds where you have to full crimp. The really subtle proprioceptive stuff probably does matter a little for some climbers, but obviously less so. Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. With the former, the first digits of fingers are more or less in line with my palm and I feel like I need more tendon/finger strength to hold the position. I'm confused on when to use these different styles and why there are different ones? I feel like if I hang on a 20mm edge I can only do the full crimp on my front knuckles, and a half crimp isn't even possible? Any info would be great,or diagrams/vids that more explainable, thanks. Are you guys always talking about half crimp or open/chisel grip as well? Huge difference for me. Stopped climbing and started reading up, which led me to assume it is an A2 pulley tear, since that's most common. Comparison of half crimp type, large (towards open hand) or small (towards full crimp) Three hold types are typically discussed in the literature: the open hand (slope), the half crimp (fingers at 90 degrees at the second joint), or full crimp (with thumb lock off). I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. Due to the higher forces put through the joints and pulleys it should be trained via climbing, instead of on a fingerboard – unless you are very experienced, with a suitable training history. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. This position gives my pinkie more access to the hold and puts less force on my index and middle finger. Background: I used to subconsciously full crimp all the time, which was not great for my fingers; it caused them to be inflamed and very stiff (synovitis). Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. Reply reply More repliesMore replies EatThaatKetchup • I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). I think of full crimp as PIP still around 90-100 degrees like half crimp, but greater DIP hyperextension and and MCP more flexed. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. There are some common viewpoints that grip strength achieved within the half crimp position is more transferable to both the open crimp and the full crimp positions due to the isometric nature of fingertraining and the joint angle specificity which follows isometric training. 4 finger half crimp. 4 finger full crimp To comment on them and share my thoughts: The most open grip type but excludes the pinky. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. Half Crimp vs. Also, since the FDS and FDP tendons have different insertion points along the fingers the half crimp position more Not being strong on half crimp or full crimp meant that any crimpy overhanging climbs were out of my league (ie most harder grade stuff!). 12c/V7-. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. I noticed that most of the holds on hard boulders outside are sharp, small, incut crimps which I do very poorly on due to the holds forcing a half/full crimp. Here are my numbers: Open hand: +53lbs (38% BW). You need to specify a grip type to really figure out what is going on: grip strength between different grips (open crimp, half crimp, full crimp, 3 finger drag etc) can vary drastically. It does transfer to decently well but I think it depends on your finger lengths relative to one another too. I notice on a recent Pex retrofit, whoever did the work used a combination of Sharkbite fittings and crimp rings on the same pex run. Id I did some finger strength benchmarking to compare against in the future and found a large gap in my half crimp strength. Small handholds requiring the “crimp” position exert the greatest compressive force to finger joint cartilage, compared with the “open hand” position that is more protective. I haven't noticed any problems because of it. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. Higher risk than drag positions. Hi all, I'm wondering whether it's better to use a thumb wrap (or thumb on the side of the index finger) vs curling the thumb into the palm when training full crimp while hangboarding. After Sep 27, 2024 · With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. I mostly use open drag to latch hold that are far away and pull it into half or full crimp depending on the hold. We also discuss the types of full-crimp. Jan 31, 2022 · Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. I have climbing partners with larger hands who seem almost afraid to crimp, going back and forth through deciding "not use it". Maybe im misinformed and I'm technically full crimping everything, but I don't think so, and I notice a bit difference when I full vs half crimp in my style. biased past half, or a few steps down the road to full crimp. 110° flexion in "half crimp" — that's pretty significant and readily identifiable on video. I'd recommend trying out putting your ring finger at a half crimp angle and essentially crimping it (in isolation) against your other palm, the steering wheel of your car, your work desk, or whatever you can find throughout the day to give the joint a little stimulus. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. I think half crimp seems to require the most actual strength (whereas open handed relies heavily on skin friction and connective tissue strength), and so I think if you're training strength half-crimp gets you the most bang for your buck. Is there a reason to mix fitting types other than that is what they had on hand? I know crimp is significantly less expensive compared to Shark bite so many guys prefer crimp rings. May 1, 2024 · When starting, avoid full-crimping until you have built enough strength that half-crimping feels good. I recently did my test day and noticed my fingers were holding in open crimp vs the suggested half crimp I've read online. These injuries have always only affected my full crimp (which i hardly ever do because I am scared of it) and half crimp positions. You might be in a "weaker" grip type when using 4 fingers, switching to a relatively stronger grip type when using 3. Often after I fall off a boulder or a route, I realize that I wasn't crimping as I was trying the final move. Half Crimp: Body Weight. Hangboarding, also known as ‘fingerboarding,’ is the best way to train your crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. Have climbed 5. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. There is much more in common between the half crimp and full crimp. , I automatically go into full crimp because am crimping down as hard as I can on every hold, when I could get away with using less effort and maintaining that 90 degree bend)? Most people only use a full crimp on the smallest handholds. Jan 19, 2021 · We describe seven of the most commonly used grip positions and the differences between them. Given the huge discrepancy between my half-crimp and closed crimp, what is a suitable (and safe) way to train the closed crimp? For reference, I also have a super short pinky, so adding the thumb would put extra strain on my wrists, as I have to torque my wrist CW to compensate. As a result, it’s easy to injure yourself with the half crimp if you overuse it. Id say my grip is almost purely open hand or half crimp, most common a sort of 80% half crimp where index a a little shy of 90° and my ring and middle are about or slightly over Both the half crimp and full crimp feel quite natural to me, especially when on real rock. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. I have only ever used half crimp (ie dont lock thumb over fingers), in blind ignorance to the fact that full crimp even existed as a beginner. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. The crimp applies a lot more force to the hold, you can keep your hips much further into the wall and get far better extension and control in your reach to the next hold. The difference in length of my index and middle create a difficult situation where open hand drags force my middle finger to a half crimp, and if I half crimp, the middle going into full. I noticed while doing weighted hangs on beastmaker 20mm that I naturally rotate my wrists outward so that my fingers aren't perpendicular to the hold but at a slight angle. (Having the sensation that you're slipping on holds can really mess with your ability to pull. It's worth noting that my full crimp doesn't seem all that different really from the reference photos. I'm gonna train up this grip, hopefully it will improve my climbing. As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. Full crimp: Good for small edges. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. ) The full crimp has some strength advantages due to the angles of the finger but that does not mean you have weak muscles overall, just maybe weak muscles for open handed positions. Half crimp will improve your full crimp strength. just curious what you guys think is better between pex expansion vs pex crimp (copper) vs pex clamp (stainless steel)? I know expansion has a $400 barrier to entry for the tool but is it generally considered more reliable than crimps? Mar 27, 2019 · The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half-crimp. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. A full crimp whould definitly be stronger. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. Through all these periods, I have maintained full strength in the open hand positions, and have just continued to climb in these positions while rehabbing my injury. I suck on biter crimps, like a lot of Moon Board yellows or these crimps on Fingerslut (Matt Fultz video), where it's like your fingers are actively going over, behind, and down into the lip of the crimp. After a few months of rehab and using different grips, my fingers now feel healthier and stronger than ever. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. Just recently started training closed crimps. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. Sprinting engages a very specific set of muscle fibers that will remain completely untrained by slower state running. Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. Mar 16, 2005 · The main lesson was that Haydn is weaker than he should be at half crimping and dragging hence: haydn jones said: 4. Using a thumb wrap should also provide more strength and in general give a more secure feeling. I think this is impossible unless you have very long pinky. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Is this a better half crimp and I just need to train it? Open hand and crimp are strong for two different reasons - one is force application, and the other is "systems support". Closed Crimp vs. I'd say adequate warm up has more of an impact on likelihood of injury than open 3 vs half crimp I also started bouldering about 2 years ago after 30 and I full crimp all the time. I'm very strong open-handed (bodyweight one-arm), but I get weaker and weaker as the attack angle of my fingers goes up. which describes using the thumb over the index in a full crimp position. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's possible in theory to half crimp any hold you can full crimp on, your DIP will still be hyperextended but you could maintain a 90 degree angle at the PIP, but this usually feels less secure for most people than using a full crimp. It's just about finding what works best for you specifically. It's hard to work around these grips open-handed because you end up I was in a full crimp position and was winding up for a jump when it popped. Pinches are blockier, and very in sizes and shapes. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. For perspective, I can one arm the A half crimp also doesn't use the thumb, so it seems to be best to compare to. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. An open/half crimp has your fingers engaged on the hold, but not the thumb. So you have one person practicing the full hand crimp too often and getting injured, and another person who is mistakenly identifying their closed hand crimp as full and doing fine. It's an aggressive half crimp. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sometimes the thumb, but not always. On the other hand, the latter feels easier and is how I On some climbs it will likely be necessary to half crimp to keep yourself on the wall, so getting comfortable with half crimping is a good idea. Whether you are hangboarding, sport climbing, board climbing or bouldering, the way that you grip a hold says a lot about your climbing. hang 4mm full crimp but I can hang 6 mm half crimp for 3 seconds or so and I like pinches etc. Closed Crimp: +44 lbs (31% BW). May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Slopers are rounder, usually larger holds that are palmed and squeezed with all the fingers. May 30, 2007 · The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are exclusive to themselves. The correlations with route grades were similar. I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. Jan 19, 2021 · Four-fingers Open-hand The four-fingers open-hand position is an excellent compromise between efficiency and power. Full Crimp, half crimp, 3 finger drag, open crimp, etc. Unusual Half Crimp I use a weird grip when trying to half crimp. I came down, rested a few minutes, then tried a v2 overhang to assess the damage, and confirmed it was injured. My strongest grip is half crimp (bw + 40% at 20mm edge for 7 secs), and I'm currently trying to improve my 3 finger drag. I have trouble hanging body weight with closed crimp on 10mm, but can do 8mm + 20% BW on an 8mm with a half crimp. I've almost completely switched to full open hand crimping (120+ degrees) and haven't been injured since. Chisel is where you crimp your longer fingers but leave your shorter fingers open handed. Idk why but if it's a small hold I have no chance moving off of it with a half crimp or drag. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. I'm wondering whether this is a correct half position and it's a case of the length of my index finger. Nov 9, 2022 · Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to resist. If you want to train full crimp do it separately. With hangboarding, for example, you can train half crimps which are safer than full crimps and engage the muscle positions used in full crimp as well as open handed. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. I wonder what the force on the A2 would be using half crimp VS full crimp. Your thumb can wrap over your pointer finger at times, which is called a "full crimp". I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. Oct 15, 2021 · In a half crimp, your thumb presses naturally against the side of your index finger. Reply Psilocy-Ben • Additional comment actions Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. iass sdzsz sbfb cfend avybf ufygdkvw jyataq wxssf kwyo oisoi