Best locking carabiner for grigri reddit. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. * IMO, it's worth the extra weight (although you'd be perfectly safe using an I-beam carabiner for these purposes). I think I'd be nice to have auto-locking but have thus far only used screw-gate biners. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. Feb 2, 2024 · Picking a single best non-locking carabiner is a lot like picking the prettiest flower: everyone you ask will have a different answer. The brake handle has also been updated with an anti-panic locking system. Looks like her grandparents took her climbing. It starts with a Type H or HMS connector designed for dynamic belaying using a Munter Hitch or belay device. Slight detail (and correct me if I’m wrong) but the carabiner gate should be facing left ie away from the right hand moving up and down. The home of Climbing on reddit. But the point is that it does a damn good job at locking up. Edit: read your comment below, so it seems I went with the better carabiner option, 1/20-1/40 seems a lot Reply reply mariafallon34 •. Obviously there are lots of factors that were unique to my experience, rope, locking carabiner geometry, etc. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. The shape of the FREINO helps resist rotation and bad positioning. Got a used grigri, anything I should look for where it wouldn’t be 100% to use anymore? Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Harness has to be a full body harness as body belts are banned as of 1998. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. Best lanyard is Petzl Connect Adjust, then there’s the Metolius PAS. We break down key features, designs, and what to consider before buying. The most ironic part is, I now have a keeper cord for my GriGri. Non-locking carabiners Do you have any in your kit and if so, what make and model and how/what do you use them for? The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. 9mm. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. Assisted-locking belay device showdown. I can't find a spec on the strength of the setup on the right 2 HMS locking Carabiners 1x to attach myself to the anchor via clove hitch, 1x if needed for scenarios like redirect lowering a climber on the GriGri/reverso, munter hitches, or rescue scenarios like MMO hitches, belay takeovers, or rappel ascension if I miss bolts (happened once, whoops). This pic from the instruction manual shows my normal setup (left) and my accidental setup (right). Old heads will say use a regular sling or Clove hitch with the rope. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. You made an excellent choice! Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. Delap often uses the GriGri in a rappelling environment, but he notes that doing so wears your ropes Unlocked her without a hand on the brake, fell about 10-15 feet and came to a dead stop. Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. Love their pure sliders too, for my PAS and a bomber quickdraw atm. I feel like the search for a good locking carabiner that's actually light, durable, and doesn't freeze is almost a hopeless endeavor. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? In hindsight, Im not sure why i was so assertive that paliston was uiaa rated besides that i may have looked at a photo of a carabiner i thought was paliston and saw a uiaa label and jumped to conclusions. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. Here in the Alps, you can usually find them at the bottom of crevasses, thrown there by mountain guides which took them off their clients for safety reasons. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Our team of climbing experts Jan 28, 2023 · Another belaying carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock has everything you need to support yourself and your fellow climbers. May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Mar 1, 2023 · To maximize the usage of the Grigri, it must be paired with the right carabiner for safety and protection of the climbers. Looking for both big ones for HMS belays, master points etc and a few smaller ones. He is talking about the locking biner he uses to belay with, and how the grigri is chewing his up (because in the case of a grigri, the rope doesn't contact the locking biner). When used together with the Mammut Bionic Carabiner the device doesn't lock. It is durable, affordable, and with a retail price, presents fantastic value. Petzl attach as master point in anchors, Simond as cheap D screwgates. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Black Diamond Gridlock The Gridlock family of carabiners are specifically designed for belay devices. The gate also features a curved extension bar off the The downside of screwgate carabiners: The gate can sometimes accidentally open when rubbing against a rope or rock. , double action) carabiners are the standard for belay devices and most other critical single point connections. In neither of these methods do you need to swap the direction of your hand on the brake rope so I don't really understand your trouble or how you must be holding the grigri Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. The grigri is over hyped. Attach the grigri to your harness backwards and clip the loop of cord to a chest Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 locking carabiner : edelrid bulletproof are nice for first draw and top rope. Pretty proud of myself for thinking this one up. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. The Plus also gives you a smoother feel so you don’t have to thumb the brake to let out slack, letting you belay the same way you would with a tubular device. More important considerations are size and shape, radius of the basket, how it handles rope, all kinds Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Single action means no lock (just push). It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. Now that im looking more closely, it looks like there are no uiaa markings on the carabiners ive seen listed in amazon. com BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. As usual u/bearbreeder has some great advice below to make sure that you are aware of how best to use an ATC/other belay device before using a grigri as grigris are assisted belay devices, not auto-locking ones. I've used clove hitches, A Rock Exotica Solo-Aid, and a Silent Partner, and honestly prefer the modified grigri. I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. Is there a particular carabiner you like to use for the grigri or would any locking carabiner do the job? May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned Clipping the grigri carabiner to another locking carabiner usually allows it to sit flat on flat surfaces. 1. You can round it out with BD stoppers, helmet, rope, what have you. Regular oval 3-way locking carabiners tend to be uncomfortable for my hand size, end with a lot of annoying fiddling when using lanyards up in the tree etc. Trad/Alpine Climber: Most likely all your non-locking carabiners, including your alpine draws and racking carabiners, will be offset D’s to keep weight down. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. I didn't have a locking biner for my GriGri, so I'm using a keyring. Weight is a factor. Aug 15, 2019 · The Black Diamond GridLock Magnetron is a belay specific locker that uses magnetic technology in the gate to create an auto-locking system that is quite a bit different than most standard twist locks. I was surprised at how much smoother my rappels and guide-mode belays got when I stopped using my I-beam carabiners and started using a round stock carabiner. Best locking carabiners for small hands? Hi everyone, pretty new to climbing and am looking for suggestions on small lockable carabiners. Step 3: The leader takes the brake strand from the GriGri, and places this rope in a second locking carabiner creating a second masterpoint on the anchor. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • What brand in particular. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. Grigri. I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Safety wise I really doubt it matters, but if you like to stick with a brand for whatever reason, and you have BD Camalots, I think it's cute to pair them with matched color Black Diamond carabiners. In order to open the gate, you must squeeze two lever arms, one on each side of the gate, which releases the magnetic grip with the nose. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. My favorite carabiner for a lanyard is the twist lock Petzl Sm’D. I posted a kind message simply explaining that in the interest of safety, it's usually best practice to use a locking biner to attach a belay device to your harness. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. Hard to use with one hand. A couple of times I have almost set up improperly with my belay loop and ATC in the same section of the biner. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. You can use a locker draw to keep the lower one out of the way. I think it lets you climb more continuously. Does anyone have recommendations for carabiners, these are the ones that I am looking at right now. Petzl now strongly recommends the second "new" method, so if you're learning new techniques go for this one rather than the"classic" method. The ones I have are twist-lock rated 24 KN closed. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. It works OK. The damn GriGri is heavy enough as it is so i looked for a very lightweight locking beaner to go with it. 560 votes, 31 comments. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs I prefer 2 progress capture devices on one strand. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. This article recommends some of them. But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. The gate of the biner is always facing left, and my right hand is my brake rope hand, never had that happened to me. Its locking gate features a twist-lock mechanism to reduce accidental openings. Thanks in anticipation! This is a double action locker (twist and push). Round stock will be better for the master point to run the rope through because of their lower friction. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. Here are our in-depth reviews! (This is masterpoint #1) Step 2: The leader takes the rope leading down to the belayer and attaches a Grigri to the belay loop of her harness with a locking carabiner in the usual way. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. Instead put that money towards a hitch climber (two auto locking carabiners, eye to eye, three ring pulley) and then buy a pinto pulley, eye to eye and auto locking carabiner for your lanyard. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight As far as lockers go, get a pair of “round-stock” and a pair of “I-beam” locking carabiners. If you have Petzl Nomics, Quarks, Lynxs, Lasers, maybe you can buy all Petzl carabiners, but I don't think Petzl makes rock Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you determine the best carabiner for your needs May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. Shoes are hanging off the outside of the bag which allows them to air dry between sessions and limits the funk. At no point did he say the word quickdraw. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. It even saved me from a sketchy rappel in the dark without a rap device at EPC shortly after I installed it. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. I use an attache 3D with my GriGri2. All these extra tests and discarding of product adds mainhours and additional expense hence the higher cost. Asking if anyone has any recommendations for a carabiner for my keychain - specifically, one that's durable and can easily be attached/unattached (I have a rape whistle and some other important goodies on my keychain so I'd need to unclip it quickly, but I'd still like to hook my keychain to my bag or anything else as necessary). Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. With the G+ that can be mitigated. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. It saves time and is safer imo. It doesn’t matter what shape biner you use for an anchor, as long as it locks in some way. If you are getting high off the ground or far from the Oct 12, 2023 · However, we’ve seen many folks use them for their chalk bag. I'm having trouble finding an answer to this question. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. And one that isn’t the size of my face. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. And yes we are scared of falling. He has a different locking biner for ATC belays, because in that case, the rope DOES contact the carabiner. I do personally love and recommend using a double or triple action auto locking biner for your belay device. What are you guys using? I'm looking for anything slightly lighter to replace my BD gear. Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. Note: If your gym is pre-rigged with GriGri’s, an offset D locking carabiner is a fine option. The best-selling Grigri, now optimized for ropes larger than 8. Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. Maybe to start lock the carabiner… I’d ditch the grigri, hand ascender and foot loop. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Here is a good video highlighting the two common methods of belay with a grigri. From belaying to rappelling, clipping bolts to racking trad gear, every climber’s kit includes a variety of carabiners, and different ones are better for different applications. Drill a small hole on the end opposite the clip-in hole and tie a short loop of cord through it. It also offers an extra-friction solution for controlling the descent of a heavy user. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. The smart is my favourite belay device. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Do you usually use your left hand for the brake rope? I have had the same set up (but with bulletproof biner) for maybe two years now. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. There's another picture of her doing a single rope rappell off of the same grigri Jan 8, 2019 · The Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate is BD's largest locking carabiner, designed with belaying and rappelling in mind. Other devices are useful for specific things but for like 99% of situations, a grigri is all around better. In the bag are harnesses for me and my husband, belay device, carabiner, chalk bags, and water bottle with extra carabiner. All things climbing carabiners demystified! May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Also, check out the Quad anchor, which seems to be the new standard. I-beam carabiners are good for other random uses - I like the BD hotforge lockers and Metolius round stock lockers. More info on carabiner stock shape here and here. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Nov 9, 2023 · According to WeighMyRack's user base the most wanted and owned carabiners are from Edelrid, CAMP, Petzl, Grivel, and Black Diamond. What's my best setup for this purpose? Most I get is that the carabiners have to be rated at least 16kn right? but it has to have a osha cert on it? or could it be a REI carabiner. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. Carabiners for GRIGRI This is not an extensive list of every carabiner that works well for a GRIGRI, but does show each of the various styles that people use to limit the chance of cross-loading a carabiner. Here are our in-depth reviews. E. 21 hours ago · Discover our picks for best climbing carabiners, with options for a range of uses. The twist and open type or two-way lock is to be handled as an non-locker. In a very rare sequence of events you can undo a screw/locking carabiner and it’s less safe. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. We’ll do our best, though, to point you in the right direction. A Keylock Nose reduces the chances of rope snagging considerably Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. Locking (I. Also you failed to mention that you can double rope rap on a mega jul. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. Its out of the ordinary and over the top but makes it super obvious to both of us that the thing is threaded properly. Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Personalizing Climbing Equipment (GriGri, Carabiners etc. I make one with a 180cm Jul 24, 2025 · When you’re climbing with ropes, whether sport, trad, or toprope, you need carabiners for so many different reasons. Most carabiners for example are x rayed to check for any micro fractures, if any are present the carabeiner is discarded. For climbers looking for a locker to use on gym climbs, top-roping days, or rappelling, the Rocklock is a good choice that won't break the bank. If you want to use a locking carabiner with an HMS-knot, it’s best to use auto-locking carabiners – otherwise, the knot may unscrew the sleeve of the screwgate. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. My partners laugh at me but I thrust my hips in their direction and haul on the rope to make the grigri lock. What locking carabiners Is everyone using. The sm’d can be used most instances you want a locker (though I probably wouldn’t use one with my atc to belay). They don’t have to be auto locking, though it’s nice in many scenarios. If anyone uses an auto-locking device other than the gri-gri, can you talk about your experience with it and its pros and cons? Are there devices that have a guide mode for multi-pitching that also lock off well on lead? I am looking to add a few locking biners to my gear, mostly for critical pieces, anchor building etc. ) Do you guys have any ideas on how to personalize climbing equipment? Some of my friends have gotten some of their stuff stolen, so I thought the more blatant it is that it's mine the less likely it will be stolen. e. Mar 4, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. Cut the handle short to prevent the rope from catching under it and preventing cam lock. 96K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. . The Giga Jul doesn't lock when you are using brand new or treated ropes and it only locks when using very specific types of carabiners. I use a Black Diamond Gridlock screwgate carabiner as my belay biner. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? See full list on climbernews. Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. You’ll find a million answers on what works best, but do whatever feels comfortable. jzt nemhlw qwzwqv anprumz nwik uqqy rjrk egvg rlnnp ucwh